On our way back home from Harmanli, we passed through a most amazing place, the
mosque-church Uspenie Bogorodichno in Uzundjovo. It is one of the oldest Bulgarian churches, and has a really intense and interesting history. It really pays off to visit this inspiring place, and to listen to its keeper's devoted story.
The original church was build in 1500, then destroyed, and converted first into a kervansaray and then into a mosque. In 1906, it is again turned into an orthodox church, following a heated debate by the local people. The villagers were very resistent to the idea of praying into an old mosque. One of the ideas put forward was to destroy the mosque, and use the building materials to create a totally new church. At the end, however, a superior wisdom prevailed, and the mosque was preserved, but transformed into a Christian temple. An amazing creation of art and architecture continued its mysterious existence in the world.
Its unique architechture and interior hold numerous symbolic meanings, revealed to the curious visitor by the incredible Bay Dencho, a devoter keper of the temple, who has spent numerous hours in deciphering the "hidden code" imprinted in the iconostasis, the wall decorations and the exterior of the church. His melodious voice will tell you an amazing story about the mosque's architect and constructor, a semi-legendary Master Lalyo (tulip), who has drawn or designed hundreds of tulips in his construction, leaving a vast deal of messages to his successors.
The master was a turk of Bulgarian origin, and the mosque he build was not turned to Mecca, but followed the Cristian canon, and the entrance was directed to south-east. In the north-western niche of the church, an incredible flower looks like the Jewish six-pointed star. On the outside, look closely on one of the semi-domes. It resembles a door knob. In a symbolic way, it represents that everyone who knocks on God's door in this temple will be allowed in, and heard. It does not matter, if visitors are Jewish, Christian or Muslim, as if Master Lalyo thought, they all pray to the same God.
Bay Dencho, a devote believer, who is not however a religious fanatic, will share his interpretation of the temple's messages - a story of religious tolerance and inclusion, a deep understanding of the singularity of god within all world religions, and a somewhat mystic totally unorthodox belief about the capacity of the human soul to reincarnate, and to expand and include clashing views and beliefs in its on-going worldly struggle for perfection. It is really amazing to listen to this man, who is definitely deeply religious, and still has a unique ability to internalize his beliefs, and make them practical, relevant and valuable for his own existence. I only wish I can claim the same degree of ownership over a clear, organized and internalized value-code and moral system to guide me and determine who I am in life.
The church features a number of first-time cultural treasures - like the first glagolic prayer in an iconostasis, or the biggest wooden iconostasis in Bulgaria. At present, this is the largest village-church in Bulgaria, and you should definitely go and see it! Being one of those places you feel earth and sky come together, it might bring some new meaning into your life.
